7:16 / Not Grandiosa

There is a cultural institution in Norway called Grandiosa. It is a name so synonymous with frozen pizza that the brand has become shorthand for the product. I have had the idea of Norwegian pizza in the back of my head since this project began, so Grandiosa seemed a natural source for inspiration. Unfortunately, my research [including a sampling of a tuna-topped pie during my recent travels in Scandinavia] has revealed that Grandiosa is no different from anything you find in America. And unless we're talking steak, hot tuna repels me. So I set aside the most relevant part of pizza culture in Norway, and instead thought about Norwegian food as a whole. Except not fish. No power on Earth can compel me to put fish on a pizza.

I find the Scandinavian palate is typically bland, and working within its constraints requires creativity if you want to get much flavor. I did my best, and the result is a plain cheese pizza with just enough of a twist to make it unique. I went for a rye crust, inspired by what may be Norway's greatest contribution to world cuisine, the open-faced sandwich. I chose to use vodka tomato sauce, which felt more northern, a geographical compromise that respected the Nordic route while staying true to the Italian medium. The cheeses are two greats from the land of the fjords - Jarlsberg and brunost.

Jarlsberg has a wonderfully nutty, Swiss-like flavor, and brunost adds a caramel tang. If you are unfamiliar with brunost, I recommend trying it ASAP. When produced, milk sugars caramelize in this soft, spreadable cheese, giving it a mildly sweet flavor. Its texture is identical to sculpting clay, it is virtually impossible to crumble, and it slices clean. Based on the result of this pizza, it also appears to have a higher melting point than most, though it does eventually get gooey.

The crust turned out well, though the rye flavor was less pronounced than I had hoped. Next time, I will adjust ratios to get something less hybrid. I left olive oil off this time, in effort to achieve that crackly, flour-dusted aesthetic.

Crust:

2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

2 1/4 cups rye flour

1/2 cup warm water

1 1/3 cup room temperature water

2 1/4 tsp active yeast

Extra flour for dusting

Toppings:

24 oz tomato vodka sauce

5 oz Jarlsburg cheese

4 oz brunost cheese

1/2 tsp sea salt

1/2 tsp black pepper

1 tsp dried tarragon

Prepare the crust per my usual method: combine flours in a large bowl, sprinkle yeast over warm water and add to the flours once the yeast begins to foam. Add the additional water and mix well with a dough hook or by hand. Knead on a floured surface to form a ball, then place the dough in an oiled bowl to rise for an hour and a half.

If you are making tomato sauce from scratch, I recommend starting before the crust, or using a corner-cutting recipe. I used pre-made sauce this time, so there was virtually no prep work before the crust was ready. Once risen, split the dough into two pieces and form it with your hands or a rolling pin into a 12-14 inch circle. Heat oven to 500ºF.

Arrange your dough on a pizza stone or baking tray. I rolled my dough quite thin and folded over the edges to make a heftier crust, but this is optional. Bake the crust for 5-8 minutes, then remove and top with the sauce and cheeses. A standard-sized jar of tomato sauce is an ample supply for two pizzas this size. Spread the sauce evenly and grate the cheeses over the top. Sprinkle a little tarragon, sea salt and black pepper over everything. Return to the oven and bake for 12-15 minutes and you're done. Makes two pies, best when fresh.