4:16 / Cultivation Moon

My family and I are shameless groupies for a local pizza place that makes a pie called Harvest Moon. Each time we go, no matter what else we try, Harvest Moon eventually makes its way onto our plates. Rather than replicating the Harvest Moon's thin, crispy crust, I opted to indulge my preference for puffy dough. In lieu of butternut squash, sausage, and onions, I made this recipe my own blend of sweet potato, Italian speck, and shallots. I also dubbed it Cultivation Moon, because Sowing Moon was just too poetic, and I felt it was too early in the season to be basing meals around the harvest.

Followers will be aware of my ongoing love affair with sweet potatoes, so it will come as no surprise that they feature here. The sweetness of shallots married well with the light smokiness of the Italian cured speck, which I prefer to the heaviness of sausage. 

There are Italian, German and Jewish varieties of speck, a cured meat I have not used before. There is much variation under the umbrella term "speck," which includes cuts ranging from pork belly to corned beef. What I found was 100% pork with Italian spices and juniper berries.

Going into this project, I correctly predicted that it would function much like pancetta. During the baking process, the speck became crisp as bacon and enhanced the whole without overwhelming the more subtle flavors.

Many other meats or meat alternatives may be substituted for this pie. Prosciutto, jámon, ground beef, or smoked and crumbled tofu are worth a try. 

For cheese I opted for Italian parmesan, and given the flavors going on, I recommend sticking with a hard cheese. Finely grated or, in this case, cut into slivers.

Though I love sweet potato here, butternut or a similar squash would also work well. As for the shallots, I prefer their sweeter flavor and easy caramelization, but red onions are perfectly serviceable as well.

The key for this pizza is to maintain the spirit of the four main topping ingredients, and allow yourself to vary within those outlines. It makes it almost infinitely customizable! Anything you like could be brushed over the top to make the pizza extra juicy. My inspiration pie uses brown butter, which I assume must have brown sugar or something equally addictive in it, as there is a lot of sweetness to counter the saltier toppings. Again, I did my own take here, with a sweet maple balsamic drizzle. This goes perfectly with the caramelized shallots.

To mix up the dough a bit, I began with the standard, fluffy dough recipe I used for my inaugural pizza, upped the flour a bit, and added some raw honey. This particular raw honey has traveled half the globe to be here today; it is harvested in Bashkortostan, also known as Bashkiria, Russia, and sold in large, expensive jars that last for months. Well worth the investment in my opinion, but any honey will do. 

Crust:

4½ cups flour

1 tsp salt

2¼ tsp active yeast

½ cup warm water [100º - 105º F]

1⅓ cup room temperature water

2 tbsp raw honey

Toppings:

6 shallots

½ large sweet potato, grated

1/4 cup pepitas or sunflower seeds

4 oz Italian speck [about ¾ cup]

12 oz parmesan cheese, slivered

1 tsbp butter

1 tbsp olive oil, plus lots for brushing

2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

2 tbsp maple syrup

Prepare the crust. Combine flour and salt in a large bowl. Sprinkle yeast over the warm water and allow to begin foaming [about 5 minutes]. Add the yeast mixture, the additional water, and honey to the flour and mix well. If using a dough hook, this takes about ten minutes. Pause to scrape down the edges of the bowl if necessary. 

Once the dough is well mixed and very sticky, turn out onto a floured surface and knead. Quite a bite of extra flour is necessary to get a cohesive dough ball. Knead until the dough is no longer sticking to your hands, about five minutes. Place in an oiled bowl in a warm place, and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Allow to rise for one hour.

Heat oven to 500º F. If using a pizza stone, set it on a rack low in the oven to preheat. As the dough rises, prepare the toppings. Slice the shallots into thin rounds and grate the sweet potato. In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt 1 tbsp butter into 1 tbsp olive oil and cook the shallots 10-15 minutes, or until lightly caramelized. I leave them in rings because they soften and break up during sautéing anyway. Set aside with the other prepared toppings. 

Once the dough is fully risen, punch it down and knead on a floured surface. Split dough into two balls and return to the oiled bowl. Let rise for another 30 minutes. Again, turn out the dough and form into crust with your hands or a rolling pin, whatever works. Each circle should be 12-14 inches in diameter. Lay dough on your pizza stone or baking sheet, and layer on the toppings.

I began with shallots on the bottom, then sweet potatoes, speck, and pepitas or sunflower seeds. Cut the parmesan cheese into thin slivers over the top of the pizza. Brush the crust liberally with olive oil, whisk together the maple syrup and balsamic vinegar, and drizzle it over the top.  

Bake each pizza for 12 minutes, or until the crust is golden to your liking. Retain a bit of the balsamic drizzle to drip over the top. Makes two to-die-for pizzas.

Tofu Crunch Wraps

This week, I made a simple, East Asian-inspired wrap. Decent for lunch or dinner, and ideal for these pre-summer days. Today being National Wine Day, I had a little white on the side. The lightness of the wine goes nicely with this dish, which is highly customizable for different diets.

I chopped all the veggies by hand, but the carrots can just as easily by grated, and the tofu can be crumbled if you are in a rush. Agave can be substituted for honey in the sauce, and the wonton wrappers can be left off entirely for gluten-free or vegan diets. If you do, do not worry about sacrificing the crunchiness. Raw carrots and red cabbage fill the role just as well, and can be helped along more by frying the tofu a bit longer to get some lovely, crunchy bits.

Because these wraps are so full, rolling is a bit tricky. I am still no expert at working with tortillas, flatbreads, or anything bread-based with a filling. I get a lot of tears, odd folds, and unintentional leaks. Like any other skill, I know I will learn in time. If you struggle with this part of the process as I sometimes do, another option is to scrap the hand-held element and just make a salad instead!

Wraps:

2 flatbreads for wrap sandwiches

8 oz firm tofu, sliced into strips

2 large carrots, julienned

2 scallions, sliced into thin rounds

20 snow peas, or a large handful, thinly sliced

1½ cups red cabbage, chopped

4-5 wonton wrappers. sliced into strips

Sauce:

2 tbsp sesame tahini

1½ tsp honey

1 tsp soy sauce

1 tsp mirin

Slice raw tofu in long, thin strips. In a large saucepan, cook the tofu in canola or sesame oil over medium heat for about fifteen minutes, or until golden brown. Once the tofu is finished, slice wonton wrappers into strips and fry them in the remaining oil. They will only take a minute or two, and brown rapidly, so remove them as soon as they turn gold.

Slice and chop all veggies. Combine sauce ingredients in a small bowl and whisk thoroughly. Lay out your flatbreads and build up the filling, beginning with cabbage, then carrots and peas, tofu, wontons,  and scallions. Drizzle the sauce over everything, wrap up, and enjoy! Makes two wraps.

3:16 / Utterly Invented Indian Pizza

Well, as promised, here is a truly experimental pizza. I had an inkling of an idea based on paneer, which I have not used before. The recipe idea evolved, and I incorporated other ideas like the naan base and chick pea topping. I grew up eating Indian meals, so hopefully I have accumulated a bit of turmeric in my veins over the years. Nevertheless, this one was a struggle. The main takeaway is that I think it has potential.

I chose to knead the dough by hand this time, with challenging results. It took much longer to achieve a cohesive and workable dough, even then, the texture remained more flaky and less smooth than I had hoped. Because naan has a characteristically bubbled, blistered and uneven texture, the dough consistency did not worry me much.

This recipe is the first time I have used a yeast specific for pizza. Like a fool, I did not read the back of the packet while shopping, or I would have known this particular yeast is intended to skip the rising process and allow for a quicker end product. Nevertheless, I followed my typical yeast procedure, because what’s the worst that could happen? In the end, despite allowing time for rising, my dough was a moderate failure. It was brittle and tough, difficult to roll and harder to shape, frankly an embarrassment to its family. Undaunted, I spent ten minutes or so fighting with it to approximate the typical, teardrop shape of commercial naan.

The most successful part of the journey was the main topping of spiced chick peas. I will definitely make this again, as it is very quick and a perfect side. By mashing the peas and including a bit of the water from the can, the mixture becomes smooth and similar in texture to tomato sauce. While curry powder could be substituted for the spice mixture I made, I much prefer to make my own. I generally start with equal parts turmeric, cumin and cayenne pepper, and add nutmeg, cardamom, cinnamon, or whatever based on the direction the meal is taking.

In shopping for this project, I came across a product called pizza chutney. Obviously there was no choice, it had to be included. While it is a strong flavor and extra spicy, it overwhelmed the chick pea topping. In the future, I may try making a similar chutney topping from scratch. I also used ghee, Indian clarified butter, in lieu of olive oil for brushing and cooking the peas.

Halfway through the pizza assembly, I discovered that paneer does not melt. This Indian cheese is made by acid coagulation, without rennet, and not aged. Rather than look up a crash course on this sphere of protein chemistry, I accepted fate, sliced up the tofu-textured cheese and grudgingly committed to the unmelted aesthetic.

The overall verdict is that the concept is sound, but it needs tweaking. My sesame-dotted crust turned out less naan, more whole wheat quiche. The textures got a little dry in the baking process, and brushing the crust with ghee did not impart anything like the sheen of olive oil. I believe the is a way of making Indian pizza right; this may not be it, but at least I am a step closer.

Crust:

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 cup whole wheat flour

¾ cup warm water

1 packet pizza yeast

¼ cup ghee or melted butter

½ tsp salt

1 tbsp black sesame seeds

Toppings:

1 can chick peas, 15½ oz.

1 tbsp ghee or butter

2 cloves garlic

½ tsp cumin 

½ tsp turmeric

½ tsp cayenne

½ tsp pepper

½ tsp salt

¼ tsp cardamom

6 oz paneer, sliced or crumbled

1 tsp cumin seeds

¼ cup pizza chutney or other tomato chutney

Make the crust first. Mix flours and salt in a large bowl. Allow yeast to foam in ¾ cup of warm water. Add yeast mixture and ghee to the flour, and mix with a dough hook for five minutes, or use a wooden spoon to combine, then knead for five minutes. Once the dough holds together well, form it into a ball and place in an oiled bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and place in a warm place to rise for 30 minutes.

Punch down the dough and separate it into two pieces. Sprinkle ½ tablespoon of black sesame seeds over each dough ball and knead them in to distribute the seeds. Shape back into balls and return to the bowl to rise for another 30 minutes.

As the dough rises, prepare the chick pea topping. In a wide, shallow saucepan over medium heat, cook the chick peas, garlic, 1 tablespoon of ghee or butter, and about 2 tablespoons of water from the chick pea can. Simmer just a few minutes to warm and soften the peas, and begin mashing them. Combine all the topping spices [everything except the cumin seeds], mixing well. Sprinkle over the peas and continue mashing until everything is evenly incorporated.

Heat the oven to 450º F. Once the dough has finished rising, roll it out into a rough, oval or teardrop shape. If following this odd recipe exactly, the dough will not puff up in the oven any more than it has already, so what you see is what you get. Spread half the chick pea mix onto each oval. Top with sliced or crumbled paneer, generous dollops of chutney, and a sprinkle of cumin seeds. Bake for 12-15 minutes, or until the crust is golden and the paneer is lightly browned on the edges. Makes 2 medium pizzas.

What I Made for Constitution Day

The seventeenth of May is celebrated in Norway as Constitution Day. It marks Norway's 1814 secession from Denmark, and these days it means lots of hot dogs, ice cream, anthem singing and marching in national dress. Despite having spent only 72 hours in the country, I have always felt drawn to Norway, the food, the weather, the culture, the music - I pine for the fjords. This week, I wanted to celebrate Syttende Mai in my own, small way with something salmon-based. Admittedly, beyond the fish choice, there is not much Scandinavian about this dish. I really just used the occasion as an excuse to experiment with one of my favorite fruits of the sea.

I had planned a simple salad with seasoned fish, and was brainstorming for something more inspired. Another project for the holiday was Norwegian cardamom buns [definitely look for these to be featured here in the future!], so I was already in a spicy headspace.

I know fish pretty well, and have made a basic, lemon and pepper filet more times than I can count. Luckily, some earlier entires in this blog got me thinking outside the box about spices vs. herbs. The idea of using allspice and clove as seasoning for salmon is a bit out of left field. I did question myself for it, but the idea is true to my philosophy, and I implore you to try it. The results speak for themselves. If you are interested in trying a new approach to fish and go in with an open mind, you will not regret it.

The anise flavor of fresh fennel is like a mixing medium for earthy herbs or sweeter spices; with fennel as a canvas, the flavors can go either way, or indeed both if done right. While I thought of doing a cold salad with fennel, my dinner salads tend to get too elaborate, so I opted for a simpler approach - butter, fennel, apply heat, devour. I had two huge bulbs of fennel to work with, but I recommend going smaller. I had three to feed, and by the end there were leftovers.

With the potentially bonkers tastes that were going to come out of the fish and fennel, I felt there needed to be a little bit of blandness, a spot on the plate where I could catch my breath. Since my household has eschewed refined and bright white foods in wholesale fashion, I went for brown rice, which I genuinely prefer for its chewiness and nutty flavor.

This trio is almost perfectly balanced. By the end of the meal, I regretted eating so quickly - possibly a good regret to have. It's a meal that is a cinch to whip up, light on ingredients yet feels varied, and ideal for savoring.

Ingredients:

2 large or 3 medium salmon filets [about 1¼ lbs]

1 large or 2 medium bulbs of fennel

1½ cups brown rice

3 cups water

4 tbsp butter

1½ tsp allspice [whole or ground]

1½ tsp cloves [whole or ground]

Salt and black pepper

I find the brown rice usually takes the longest, so I prepared it first. In a medium saucepan, bring 3 cups of water and 1½ cups of brown rice to a boil. Reduce heat to low and cover. Try not to disturb the rice until all the water is absorbed, about 30-40 minutes. If you want everything to be ready at the same time, begin the fish and fennel after the rice has been cooking for about 15 minutes. Both should be cooked at the same time on the stovetop, both in shallow, wide saucepans. Their similarity of preparation adds harmony to the whole endeavor, but it also keeps things simple, foregoing the oven altogether.

Slice the fennel into rounds, about ¼ of an inch thick, then cut across into crescent shapes. Go right up to the end of the white part of the bulb. I ended up with four heaping cups of fennel once it was sliced, but two or three is plenty. Melt two tablespoons of butter in a large, shallow saucepan. Add fennel and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until the pieces are golden brown and buttery in texture, about 20 minutes.

Prepare the salmon as you cook the fennel. If using ground allspice and cloves, rub them into the fish on both sides along with salt and pepper to taste. If using whole spices, bash them a bit with a rolling pin, and sprinkle on once the fish is in the pan, half on each side of the filets.

In another shallow saucepan, melt two more tablespoons of butter and cook the salmon over medium-high heat. Add some green fennel sprigs, which will wilt nicely into the fish as it cooks. The salmon may not take as long as the fennel - and of all things, I think fish is one of the most important to consume the moment it is done - so plan to serve as soon as the salmon is cooked.

Flip the fish a few times during the process, and make sure the spices are evenly distributed. Cook until flaky, or to your liking. I usually leave it a little rare, which takes 10-15 minutes.

I plated everything in a triangle, perhaps in a subconscious attempt to bring a Scandinavian design sensibility to the table. It tastes just as good and possibly better in a big, layered pile with rice on the bottom and fish on top. Honestly, I think this is one of my better brainwaves, and may become a go-to. Good luck, happy eating and gratulerer med dagen!

2:16 / Deep Dish

I do not have much preamble this week. This is a fairly basic deep dish recipe, and I have included it mostly as an exercise in getting to grips with the form and how it behaves in contrast to its flatter cousin. While an overall success, I will not be doing another basic pizza for a while. Look for things to get, for lack of a better word, exotic next week.

Borrowing from various recipes [again; but I will experiment eventually] that required two identical pans, I opted for standard, 9-inch cake pans over cast iron. For any cast iron elitists out there, rest assured this was the most painful decision of the day.

This recipe makes two pizzas, so bear in mind the crust, sauce and cheese are all split evenly when assembling them. One of these was an adequate meal for four people, but your mileage may vary depending on hunger.

Crust:

3 cups flour, extra for dusting and rolling

½ cup cornmeal

1½ cups warm water [105º - 110º F]

2 tsp. or 1 packet yeast

1 tsp salt

¼ cup melted butter

Olive oil for brushing

Sauce:

4 small tomatoes, rough chopped

1 14.5 oz can of stewed tomatoes

1 medium onion, diced

2 cloves garlic, diced or minced

1 tsp dried basil

1 tsp oregano

1 tsp tarragon

1 tsp red pepper flakes

3 tbsp olive oil and extra for brushing

Cheese:

1½ - 2 cups grated mozzarella

¾ cup additional mozzarella, either grated or sliced

¼ cup grated parmesan

Sprinkle yeast over the warm water and allow it a few minutes to begin bubbling. Combine in a large bowl with all dry ingredients. As before, using a dough hook is ideal but not required. As the dough mixes, add the melted butter. If you are using a stand mixer, the dough takes just a few minutes to form itself into a nice, solid ball. Knead a few times on a floured surface, and transfer the dough to an oiled bowl. Allow the dough to rise in a warm place [I usually leave it on top of the oven at 200º F] for two hours.

After my dough had risen, I laminated it for a puffier crust. This is entirely optional, but if you would like to squeeze a few more calories into your pizza, simply punch down and roll out the risen dough, butter it generously, and roll or fold it so the layers of butter overlap. There are more complicated ways of laminating, and maybe recipes are geared towards making puff pastry. I do recommend reading up on the subject, as I forgot to take photos of this step and the description is a bit confusing without them. If you follow this step, allow the dough to puff of a bit more after laminating and before you roll out the final shape.

As the crust rises, prepare the sauce. In a medium saucepan, combine the olive oil and onion over medium-high heat. As the onions turn gold, about five minutes in, add the fresh tomatoes, garlic and spices. Simmer on a medium heat for fifteen minutes, then add the canned tomatoes. Cook for another fifteen minutes over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes are breaking down. Help the sauce along with a masher or an immersion blender if you like. Turn off the heat and leave covered, or reduce heat to very low if you will be assembling the pizzas immediately after the sauce is finished.

When the crust dough has doubled in size, bump up the oven to 450º F. Punch the dough [skip this if you have laminated it] and move it from the oiled bowl to a floured surface. Split dough into two equal pieces and roll each out to a 12 inch circle. It should remain at least ¼ inch thick. Press the dough into lightly oiled cake pans. It should just reach the top of the sides of the pan. This dough is quite fussy about being put back together if you do pull it apart, so to avoid a repetition of the kneading process, adjust as much as you can without tearing the dough. It is not too difficult, as the thick dough will hold together well through a lot of shifting and re-rolling. 

Once the dough is prepared, layer on grated mozzarella until the bottom surface is completely covered, about ¾ cup for each pizza. Pour the prepared sauce over the mozzarella. This will bring the pizza filling just about to the top of the crust. Top with extra mozzarella, either grated or sliced into small pieces. Sprinkle parmesan all over the top. Bake for 22-24 minutes, until the crust is gold and the cheese is bubbly. Top with a couple fresh basil leaves or an extra dash of oregano.