Sunday, May 22, 2016

3:16 / Utterly Invented Indian Pizza


Well, as promised, here is a truly experimental pizza. I had an inkling of an idea based on paneer, which I have not used before. The recipe idea evolved, and I incorporated other ideas like the naan base and chick pea topping. I grew up eating Indian meals, so hopefully I have accumulated a bit of turmeric in my veins over the years. Nevertheless, this one was a struggle. The main takeaway is that I think it has potential.


I chose to knead the dough by hand this time, with challenging results. It took much longer to achieve a cohesive and workable dough, even then, the texture remained more flaky and less smooth than I had hoped. Because naan has a characteristically bubbled, blistered and uneven texture, the dough consistency did not worry me much.


This recipe is the first time I have used a yeast specific for pizza. Like a fool, I did not read the back of the packet while shopping, or I would have known this particular yeast is intended to skip the rising process and allow for a quicker end product. Nevertheless, I followed my typical yeast procedure, because what’s the worst that could happen? In the end, despite allowing time for rising, my dough was a moderate failure. It was brittle and tough, difficult to roll and harder to shape, frankly an embarrassment to its family. Undaunted, I spent ten minutes or so fighting with it to approximate the typical, teardrop shape of commercial naan.


The most successful part of the journey was the main topping of spiced chick peas. I will definitely make this again, as it is very quick and a perfect side. By mashing the peas and including a bit of the water from the can, the mixture becomes smooth and similar in texture to tomato sauce. While curry powder could be substituted for the spice mixture I made, I much prefer to make my own. I generally start with equal parts turmeric, cumin and cayenne pepper, and add nutmeg, cardamom, cinnamon, or whatever based on the direction the meal is taking.


In shopping for this project, I came across a product called pizza chutney. Obviously there was no choice, it had to be included. While it is a strong flavor and extra spicy, it overwhelmed the chick pea topping. In the future, I may try making a similar chutney topping from scratch. I also used ghee, Indian clarified butter, in lieu of olive oil for brushing and cooking the peas.


Halfway through the pizza assembly, I discovered that paneer does not melt. This Indian cheese is made by acid coagulation, without rennet, and not aged. Rather than look up a crash course on this sphere of protein chemistry, I accepted fate, sliced up the tofu-textured cheese and grudgingly committed to the unmelted aesthetic.


The overall verdict is that the concept is sound, but it needs tweaking. My sesame-dotted crust turned out less naan, more whole wheat quiche. The textures got a little dry in the baking process, and brushing the crust with ghee did not impart anything like the sheen of olive oil. I believe the is a way of making Indian pizza right; this may not be it, but at least I am a step closer.


Crust:
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
¾ cup warm water
1 packet pizza yeast
¼ cup ghee or melted butter
½ tsp salt
1 tbsp black sesame seeds

Toppings:
1 can chick peas, 15½ oz.
1 tbsp ghee or butter
2 cloves garlic
½ tsp cumin 
½ tsp turmeric
½ tsp cayenne
½ tsp pepper
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp cardamom
6 oz paneer, sliced or crumbled
1 tsp cumin seeds
¼ cup pizza chutney or other tomato chutney

Make the crust first. Mix flours and salt in a large bowl. Allow yeast to foam in ¾ cup of warm water. Add yeast mixture and ghee to the flour, and mix with a dough hook for five minutes, or use a wooden spoon to combine, then knead for five minutes. Once the dough holds together well, form it into a ball and place in an oiled bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and place in a warm place to rise for 30 minutes.


Punch down the dough and separate it into two pieces. Sprinkle ½ tablespoon of black sesame seeds over each dough ball and knead them in to distribute the seeds. Shape back into balls and return to the bowl to rise for another 30 minutes.


As the dough rises, prepare the chick pea topping. In a wide, shallow saucepan over medium heat, cook the chick peas, garlic, 1 tablespoon of ghee or butter, and about 2 tablespoons of water from the chick pea can. Simmer just a few minutes to warm and soften the peas, and begin mashing them. Combine all the topping spices [everything except the cumin seeds], mixing well. Sprinkle over the peas and continue mashing until everything is evenly incorporated.


Heat the oven to 450ยบ F. Once the dough has finished rising, roll it out into a rough, oval or teardrop shape. If following this odd recipe exactly, the dough will not puff up in the oven any more than it has already, so what you see is what you get. Spread half the chick pea mix onto each oval. Top with sliced or crumbled paneer, generous dollops of chutney, and a sprinkle of cumin seeds. Bake for 12-15 minutes, or until the crust is golden and the paneer is lightly browned on the edges. Makes 2 medium pizzas.

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