What I Made for Constitution Day

The seventeenth of May is celebrated in Norway as Constitution Day. It marks Norway's 1814 secession from Denmark, and these days it means lots of hot dogs, ice cream, anthem singing and marching in national dress. Despite having spent only 72 hours in the country, I have always felt drawn to Norway, the food, the weather, the culture, the music - I pine for the fjords. This week, I wanted to celebrate Syttende Mai in my own, small way with something salmon-based. Admittedly, beyond the fish choice, there is not much Scandinavian about this dish. I really just used the occasion as an excuse to experiment with one of my favorite fruits of the sea.

I had planned a simple salad with seasoned fish, and was brainstorming for something more inspired. Another project for the holiday was Norwegian cardamom buns [definitely look for these to be featured here in the future!], so I was already in a spicy headspace.

I know fish pretty well, and have made a basic, lemon and pepper filet more times than I can count. Luckily, some earlier entires in this blog got me thinking outside the box about spices vs. herbs. The idea of using allspice and clove as seasoning for salmon is a bit out of left field. I did question myself for it, but the idea is true to my philosophy, and I implore you to try it. The results speak for themselves. If you are interested in trying a new approach to fish and go in with an open mind, you will not regret it.

The anise flavor of fresh fennel is like a mixing medium for earthy herbs or sweeter spices; with fennel as a canvas, the flavors can go either way, or indeed both if done right. While I thought of doing a cold salad with fennel, my dinner salads tend to get too elaborate, so I opted for a simpler approach - butter, fennel, apply heat, devour. I had two huge bulbs of fennel to work with, but I recommend going smaller. I had three to feed, and by the end there were leftovers.

With the potentially bonkers tastes that were going to come out of the fish and fennel, I felt there needed to be a little bit of blandness, a spot on the plate where I could catch my breath. Since my household has eschewed refined and bright white foods in wholesale fashion, I went for brown rice, which I genuinely prefer for its chewiness and nutty flavor.

This trio is almost perfectly balanced. By the end of the meal, I regretted eating so quickly - possibly a good regret to have. It's a meal that is a cinch to whip up, light on ingredients yet feels varied, and ideal for savoring.

Ingredients:

2 large or 3 medium salmon filets [about 1¼ lbs]

1 large or 2 medium bulbs of fennel

1½ cups brown rice

3 cups water

4 tbsp butter

1½ tsp allspice [whole or ground]

1½ tsp cloves [whole or ground]

Salt and black pepper

I find the brown rice usually takes the longest, so I prepared it first. In a medium saucepan, bring 3 cups of water and 1½ cups of brown rice to a boil. Reduce heat to low and cover. Try not to disturb the rice until all the water is absorbed, about 30-40 minutes. If you want everything to be ready at the same time, begin the fish and fennel after the rice has been cooking for about 15 minutes. Both should be cooked at the same time on the stovetop, both in shallow, wide saucepans. Their similarity of preparation adds harmony to the whole endeavor, but it also keeps things simple, foregoing the oven altogether.

Slice the fennel into rounds, about ¼ of an inch thick, then cut across into crescent shapes. Go right up to the end of the white part of the bulb. I ended up with four heaping cups of fennel once it was sliced, but two or three is plenty. Melt two tablespoons of butter in a large, shallow saucepan. Add fennel and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until the pieces are golden brown and buttery in texture, about 20 minutes.

Prepare the salmon as you cook the fennel. If using ground allspice and cloves, rub them into the fish on both sides along with salt and pepper to taste. If using whole spices, bash them a bit with a rolling pin, and sprinkle on once the fish is in the pan, half on each side of the filets.

In another shallow saucepan, melt two more tablespoons of butter and cook the salmon over medium-high heat. Add some green fennel sprigs, which will wilt nicely into the fish as it cooks. The salmon may not take as long as the fennel - and of all things, I think fish is one of the most important to consume the moment it is done - so plan to serve as soon as the salmon is cooked.

Flip the fish a few times during the process, and make sure the spices are evenly distributed. Cook until flaky, or to your liking. I usually leave it a little rare, which takes 10-15 minutes.

I plated everything in a triangle, perhaps in a subconscious attempt to bring a Scandinavian design sensibility to the table. It tastes just as good and possibly better in a big, layered pile with rice on the bottom and fish on top. Honestly, I think this is one of my better brainwaves, and may become a go-to. Good luck, happy eating and gratulerer med dagen!